V Puro Aliás Branco de Outrora 2017
Nuno Mira do Ó is the winemaker behind Druida, Vidente and V Puro, wines from the historic Dão, Bucelas and Bairrada regions of Portugal.
His V Puro wines exist to shine a light on the extraordinary revolution in winemaking happening in Bairrada, a hilly region buffeted by the cooler, wetter weather coming off the Atlantic ocean. In the past it was relegated to producing cheap wines for the domestic market but a collection of quality-minded producers have in recent years elevated Bairrada wines to ever-greater heights - with better viticulture and sensitive winemaking, in particular with the native Baga grape for reds and Bical grape for whites.
Nuno's philosophy is in keeping with this. In his own words, his wines are "a pursuit for balance with the utmost respect for nature".
Think of Aliás as a delectable white burgundy but with added saline freshness and acidity. The Bical comes from old vineyards planted on clay and limestone in this Atlantic-influenced climate. Natural fermentation was followed by a year's ageing in old French oak barrels, which have a very light influence on the wine's flavour but a great deal of influence on its structure.
That deep saline minerality gives leads to wet stone notes, then finer citrus fruit flavours. It's waxy yet fresh, tense yet flowing, a joy to drink and to behold!